“You must love the neighborhood,” a long-time Hyde Park resident and business owner said to me, after telling me to order the soup next time I visit our shared favorite restaurant, Julio’s Cafe.
John has been in the bookcase business for 31 years. His store is a small bungalow on Guadalupe and 42nd that is usually filled with hundreds of bookcases. It now sits practically empty, with only a few choices of extreme variation in size remaining. He plans to retire at the end of this year and stopped taking custom orders at the beginning of the summer, but as I chat with him about our mutual affection for the neighborhood, I become determined to be one of his last customers.
“I love it, but I don’t live here anymore,” I confessed. What I don’t admit to John is that I only lived in Austin’s historic Hyde Park neighborhood for one of my seven years here. Despite that pathetic tenure and the fact that I moved to another neighborhood three years ago, I still see Hyde Park as the soul of this weird city I call home.
Talking to this neighborhood veteran stoked the identity I’ve cultivated for my Hyde Park affinity, but I don’t extend the same sense of shared ownership to my friends who are relatively new to the city—and who actually live in Hyde Park. When they say it’s the best neighborhood in Austin, I bristle at the entitlement they feel over the space in which I so desperately wish to reside. Part of it stems from fear I’ll never be able to afford to move back, but mostly it comes from a belief that they can’t possibly see everything I see.
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The heat is finally subsiding after a long summer, and I observe this change in season, as I have every change in season for the last year and a half, from the porch in Will’s backyard. My church Bible study meets at this house every Wednesday night. We find ourselves here many other days of the week too, playing board games or watching movies on a projector screen in the backyard. I’ve spent more evenings here than anywhere else I haven’t lived.
When Will first sent me his address almost two years ago, I cried. Meeting here meant re-establishing part of my life not just in Hyde Park, but in the heart of Hyde Park, directly under the moontower on 41st and Speedway.
The 165-foot moonlight tower, a precursor to modern streetlights, was purchased from Detroit in 1895. Old-Austin lore sometimes connects this public safety initiative to a string of murders in the early 1880s committed by the Servant Girl Annihilator—some even allege the perpetrator to have been Jack the Ripper visiting from London. Now, 13 of the original 31 towers remain, and Austin has been the only city in the world still using them for at least 100 years. The towers were declared historical landmarks in 1976, the same year that serves as the setting for Richard Linklater’s 1993 film Dazed and Confused, in which several intoxicated teenagers climb the tower in Zilker Park. The moonlight towers are, literally, a shining example of Austin’s determination to be weird, even if for something most people would never notice.
Most of the remaining towers are scattered throughout downtown, but the Hyde Park moontower stands in the center of a neighborhood, sticking out above the houses and trees. It is just one of the many characteristics that lend a unique identity to “Austin’s first suburb.”
Typical suburban features are totally absent; there are no identical houses or unassuming planter boxes full of meticulously-HOA-agreed-upon flowers. Instead of clean uniformity and utility, Hyde Park is a quirky mish-mash of every Austinite personality. It is simultaneously old-Austin and new money, overgrown and well-kempt, perfectly ordered and charmingly chaotic.
Historically landmarked, one-hundred-year-old homes are side-by-side with brand new big-glass-boxes. On some blocks, flowery weeds grow through cracks in the sidewalk, and in others, rock lawns keep the weeds to a minimum, while tiny plastic tchotchkes invite woodland fairies to stay. Pruned trees and well-raked lawns are a block away from a magnolia tree fortress with thousands of fallen leaves hiding under its heavy, drooping branches. The streets—Avenue A through H and 28th through 51st—offer some sense of order to the chaos by being integrated into the city grid, rather than meandering along with tree-themed or vaguely plantation-themed names typical of modern suburbia.
One house of note has window frames hanging down from trees like swings and an industrial sculpture of an eight-foot-tall man carrying something over his head. I can only assume the owner, a middle-aged man I once saw walking through the yard in tighty-whities, is an artist.
Across the street is a house with a small chalkboard advertising eggs for sale, and the chickens in the front yard always make me wonder how many Hyde Park residents keep chickens–I know of at least three more. This house also has goats, who should be able to hop over the three-foot fence around their yard, especially when standing atop the five-foot structure right next to it, but they seem to be at home enough to stay.
Now and then, when walking around the neighborhood, I spot members of the bright green parakeet population. Allegedly, their house pet ancestors were released nearby over 40 years ago and have continued to occupy the skies over the nine-hole public golf course. Some yard signs sprinkled throughout the neighborhood advocate for this golf course to be turned into a park, while others–primarily lawns right next to the course–insist that it remain.
Knowing these quirks intimately makes me feel very get-off-my-lawn about things. But I don’t live in Hyde Park, and I haven’t in over three years. And does my one year renting a duplex on 45th street really qualify me for any claim over it? What gives someone ownership over a place, a neighborhood, a city? What permits someone to be grounded in belonging?
When I think about friends who have left Austin to establish themselves elsewhere, in neighborhoods I know nothing about, I celebrate their ability to make a new city home. I realized this hypocritical dissonance in myself after visiting two friends who moved away last year. On both these trips, I delighted in seeing new neighborhoods through the eyes of my friends.
On my first day in Portland, Taylor dropped me off on a random street and said “walk that way,” knowing I’d find local stores, coffee shops, and sidewalk libraries to fill my time while she was working. Later that night, she took me to a graduation ceremony for the non-profit addiction recovery center she works for, and I heard the life stories of three resilient women. On another day, I joined Taylor on her favorite daily ritual of taking a mug of coffee on a walk around her neighborhood. She pointed out her favorite houses and waved to neighbors as we passed, and I felt warmed by her belonging.
In El Paso, Clara took me immediately from the airport to a small park with a view of Juarez and the mountains. She took off her shoes to run barefoot on one of the few patches of green in her new city. Throughout my stay, she took me to the mountains, a graveyard, the outlet mall, a wine bar, a fair and music venue in Juarez, her friend’s apartment, and church. One day, we took her bike to be fixed free of charge by a local communist group aiming to make cycling accessible to all, and on my last day we rode that bike past her neighbor Beto O’Rourke’s house, where she saw him playing basketball with his son a few days prior.
These friends haven’t been in either place long, but their habit of noticing the details passes on an easy affection that I couldn’t help but acquire for both cities. I had no problem calling Portland or El Paso my friends’ new homes, though they’ve been in their neighborhoods as long as my other friends have called Hyde Park home.
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I’m at Julio’s Cafe eating the soup. I haven’t heard confirmation from John yet about my bookcase, but he only works a couple days each week, so I expect updates to be slow. Serendipitously, the last unclaimed bookcase he’s making is the size I wanted. When he calls next, I’ll tell him I got the soup and that I listened to the Spanish zydeco punk band he recommended.
Today, the tables outside—emblazoned with yellow and blue Corona logos and affixed to the ground—are occupied by middle-aged women having intensely private conversations in lowered voices and indie men in their late-20s and 30s sitting alone with a beer. People often sit alone at Julio’s with a book and a beer.
A man I’ve seen here many times before, sometimes playing guitar, asks me if he can take a chair from my table and if I like the soup. He says he may order it too, but he doesn’t. Julio’s draw is simplicity. The food is classic, fresh, no-nonsense Mexican—no fusion, no frills. It’s not trendy, it’s just Hyde Park residents enjoying their local haunt.
As I eat, I stare at the new Mexican restaurant across the street that replaced Mother’s Cafe, which, after 40 years in Hyde Park, closed during the pandemic. This new restaurant claims to be the “home of the avocado margarita,” but I prefer Julio’s because it needs no hook.
I gaze across the street, I’m reminded that it is the nature of cities and neighborhoods to change. Old buildings fill with new inhabitants. For better or worse, golf courses might one day become parks. A place will not be what you love about it forever, and new people may value it for new reasons. I once knew nothing about Hyde Park, and even those parrots were once new to the neighborhood. Everyone begins their relationship with a place at some point, and you can’t control whether or not someone sees the same beauty you see in it.
Maybe time spent in or affinity for the history of a place are elements, but not the whole picture. Maybe the quality of noticing is just as important—looking up to appreciate the historical landmarks, the overgrowth, the wild parrots, the yard signs that support the golf course vs. the park development, the sidewalk chalk Bible verses in front of Hyde Park Baptist Church, where some cheeky kid recently wrote “they gave him a piece of broiled fish” next to other kids’ more poetic selections from scripture. If someone notices these things the way I do, and maybe even notices more than I ever could, then my entitlement slips, and I concede to them a sense of belonging.
I know I’m not the arbiter of belonging, but I do think my habit of noticing at least earns me rapport with the people who call this neighborhood home, and I’d like the think the ones with deep roots, like John, are delighted in my noticing.
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The Hyde Park moontower was re-installed this spring after about a year of being down for restoration, and it only recently started to come back on at night. On a recent walk, I turned down 41st street with the intention of taking a photo of the tower during sunset. A couple of other walkers were on the street, so I doubled back to avoid being observed taking a photo, which always makes me feel corny. When I circled back, I saw another woman stop to take a photo, framing the mooontower through tall floral overgrowth spilling into the road from a house about two blocks away. In a moment that would normally make me feel spectacularly unoriginal, I laughed.
She noticed the mooontower was back on too.






